Wednesday 16 February 2011

Quebec City and my developing phobia of snow,

A rare sighting of the Canadian flag in Quebec
Right, so as far as I'm concerned, Quebec City is not Canada. It's France. A very distant and cold part of France, but none the less France. If I was to wake up here one cold morning in a bathtub filled with ice and a missing kidney, stumble out onto the street and in a mad panic evaluate my surroundings, I'd immediately think I was in some small French city. Apart from the tacky souvenir stores selling bad t-shirts and hockey memorabilia, there's absolutely nothing Canadian about this place. Not surprisingly, I really like it. The people really aren't as nasty and anti anglophone as we're lead to believe. They've all been very...well...French, which isn't bad because I had no issues with them when I was in France. You can definitely catch the vibe that they wish they were part of France or a simply a Francophone country. The Quebecois flag is found proudly floating in the icy wind 10x more than the Canadian flag. Everything is very pro-Quebec. For me, I don't have a problem with it, but I can see how the Canadians would resent it quite a bit and I'm guessing this is where the whole "well sod off and form you're own bloody country" attitude stems from.


Just in case you didn't notice, it's on a hill
As a city Quebec is considerably smaller than Montreal or Toronto. It is strikingly European and is a far cry from the planned and gridded staple Canadian cities. It has winding roads, ancient streets and buildings perched on hills. It reminds of the small towns you see from the helicopter when the tour de France is on. Not that I expect you uncultured people to watch Le tour! Anyhow, lots of Chateaus on hills with pointy roofs. Apparently it's the only city left in North America with a fort surrounding it. The French were mighty paranoid of the English before their eventual defeat, because the place is completely garrisoned by cannons. Anything which was brave enough to sail down the St Laurence river (Quebec is based on the banks of it) would have encountered quite the arsenal. Walking around the old part of the city is particularly amazing. There's sites to rival that of any European city and I guess it's refreshing to see in amongst the sky scraper obsessed cities of the modern age. Quebec does have a number of modern tall buildings, but they have cleverly built those quite a distance from the old ones, which is nice to see.

The weather has been extremely cold. I'm really starting to resent not having bought boots at the beginning of my Canada trip. I can't walk outside without salt loaded snow staining "me strides" (one for you there Mike) and my socks getting soaked. The salt destroys everything. I really liked the pair of shoes I bought in Toronto too and the snow has pretty much eaten them. They now resemble painted tissue boxes. Apparently this Thursday it's going to be 16'C in New York which would feel like I'd stepped into the tropics. I don't think I've felt a positive Temperature in over 3 months so maybe it's best if I ease myself back into warmth rather than transition directly into this crazy warmth. I might get sick!
I immediately abused the bus driver for ruining my photo


I'm back off to Montreal tomorrow and then heading off to a country house, a very big house, in the country for a birthday.

Thursday 10 February 2011

Canal Skating, French Speaking and Bed Bugs.

Well I've been pretty productive the last week or so. I've managed to squeeze in Niagara Falls, Ottawa and now Montreal. I probably could have made more entries, but as you all probably know, I'm pretty lazy. I have also managed to considerably top my high score on doodle jump for the iPhone. If you don't have it, look it up.

My score is at least ten times this score...

So, let me try and give a quick run down of where I've been and what I've gotten up to. I really should have done this as I went along. That was the original idea, wasn't it? 


Ok, so Ottawa. You mention the word Ottawa to any Canadian and their face seems to shift into a shape representing either boredom or confusion. This ultimately depends on whether you're discussing the prospect or visiting the place or just the word on its own. It's almost like Ottawa is Canberra's tran-pacific sister. Anyway, I felt it was only necessary to visit Canada's capital...right? Well, I did and I certainly don't regret it. I honestly feel that Ottawa gets a bad wrap unfairly. There's certainly plenty to see and do. The fact that it's a bi-lingual city makes it interesting also. The Rideau Canal is simply amazing, especially for someone from a hot climate like myself. For those of you who don't know what the Rideau Canal is, it's a canal that splits the city. In the winter it completely freezes solid allowing people to skate on the ice. There's people who actually skate to work via the canal. I could almost say for me, visiting Ottawa was worth it just to see this. Surprisingly enough, I didn't struggle at all skating on the canal. The hire skates may have left me with permanent ankle injuries, but my ankles were pretty bad anyway.

Plans are already underway to entirely freeze Canal St in Manchester.

Ottawa is also loaded with museums and government buildings, which is great if you're into that stuff. On my second day in Ottawa I was faced with a blizzard of such a scale that people in Toronto were apparently referring to it as "Snowmageddon" or something along the lines. Well I wouldn't say it was as disastrous as the film of a similar name starring Bruce Willis, but it was pretty bad. The snow was up to my knees and stairways started to resemble something of a snowboarders rail. Accompanied by an enthusiastic Canadian who now lives in Costa Rica (also extremely enthusiastic about his adopted country) we made it to the Parliament building and the military museum. Both places were what you'd expect and reasonably enjoyable. Canadian parliament is a lot smaller than I'd expected. The library inside it however is pretty stunning. I met a French-Canadian security guard in the tower at Parliament who had traveled to Melbourne. It seemed drive-thru bottle shops were his favourite part of the entire trip. I also managed have a walk around the Canadian museum of civilisation. which pretty much demonstrated how much more they respect their aboriginal culture than we Australians do.

Ottawa gave me my first taste of Québec. There is a bridge quite close to the centre of Ottawa that leaves Ontario and passes into the adjacent provence of Quebec. If you didn't already know, Quebec is largely inhabited by Francophones and their culture is somewhat different to that of the rest of Canada. As soon as you cross the border, French immediately replaces English as the dominantly language. This covers everything from signage to public announcements. It's pretty amazing to experience when you come from a place where only one language is spoken.


I did briefly return back to Toronto before I bussed off to Montreal. For one night I stayed in the most disgusting Hostel I have ever had the pleasure of attempting to sleep in. Returning to Toronto from Ottawa hungover on a 6 hour bus trip was not pleasant. I have become complacent on booking hostels and have resorted a couple of times of booking one from a starbucks once I arrive in the city. This particular occasion I was given a nice little reminder that there is nothing wrong with booking at least one day ahead. Unfortunately for me on that Friday, everything was booked out. I ended up finding a place a little bit too far out of town for my liking and in an extremely questionable area. I got a 4 bed dorm for $22, which at the time seemed like a reasonable deal. I quickly changed my mind when I opened the door to the stench of what can only be described as rotting food, dirty laundry and mould. I was warned by an overweight and disheveled looking Japanese man that everyone in the room was suffering from bed bugs. I quickly removed all the sheets off my bed allowing me to sleep on a vinyl mattress safe from the blood sucking teeth of the dreaded bed bugs. A man across from me was asleep with his back exposed. The bed bugs had absolutely gone to town on him. His back looked like a pizza. The next morning I quickly located another hostel in downtown, which was the complete opposite of where I had stayed. It was totally immaculate. I was the only person in a 4 bed dorm, which had its own ensuite. It was slightly more expensive, but sometimes it shows that you get what you pay for.  Have a read through some of the reviews from the disgusting place I stayed at in Toronto. , they're hilarious. http://tiny.cc/lji91
Downtowner Inn: Ceiling Fan
This is actually the ceiling in the room...One can only assume the bed bugs chewed their way through.

So after Ottawa and Toronto, I am now in Montréal in Quebec. Montreal is pretty much instantly likable. It has a fantastic subway/metro system, which is pretty reasonably priced for tourists if you buy a multi-day pass. It also has a working smartcard system that actually works unlike Melbourne's "smart" card system Myki. Is that actually functioning now? Best of all, unlike Ontario, you can buy alcohol at supermarkets and corner stores. I really do love the liberal and bourgeois French. Aesthetically Montreal is quite similar to Melbourne, it doesn't come across as being too big and it has a bit of a European vibe, no doubt inherited from the French influence. Speaking of French influence, it is a lot more French here than I had expected it to be. Almost everyone speaks French here, but will respond to you in English if you are unable to converse in French, which is very handy. They don't seem to be as horrible as the rest of Canada make them out to be. The hostel I stayed in was fairly comfortable, but luckily for me and old friend of mine has agreed to let me stay with him for the weekend provided I cook him and his girlfriend my specialty, Madras Curry.

Due to the weather I haven't been able to see much of the city so far, but the weather looks to be improving, so hopefully this will change by the weekend. This time I will try to update more often so you're not greeted with a wall of text.

Tuesday 1 February 2011

One week down

Hello again folks.

Well it's been a week since I arrived in Canada and a week since my last blog, so I guess I should probably update on what's been happening. This could potentially be a long one, because I have been lazily avoiding making another entry.

Anyway, I want to dot point some facts you may not know about Canada and some of my thoughts.

- Public Transport is run by one government company called the TTC -Generally I've found the people running it (mainly bus drivers) are bastards! Not an actual reflection of Canadians though.

- Alcohol can only be purchased from one government owned store called the LCBO. It's taxed highly and is clearly pretty regulated. I've seen hardly any booze adverts either. The poor Canadians have to make sure they get their booze before it closes at 8pm and it's not open on Sundays! Now I know why I haven't seen any English people living here. No offy!

- Toronto FC season tickets are more expensive than Manchester United season tickets. The seats prices are up there too.

- Toronto Maple Leafs have the strongest following in the NHL and have probably been the most consistently shitty team over the last 10 years. They still sell out every match though.







Form of champions...


- They are allowed to beat the piss out of each other in Ice Hockey. Apparently there's a code of respect when doing it too...Who'd have known?


- Nightclubs, Bars and Pubs close at 2am. I'm usually only getting started by that point...

- You have to pay to receive calls as well as make them.

- Sales tax is not included in the advertised price, leading to some embarrassing moments of fiddling around for change.

- There are over 25kms of underground paths filled with shops and other things underneath Toronto.

- Nearly everything is bi-lingually labelled. (French/English)

- The only people you don't tip are McDonald's employees. 

- Canadian girls are pretty damn attractive. I'm putting it down to the fact that I've gotten used to Women plastering themselves in makeup to the point where they look like clowns. I'm looking at you UK.

- People are not afraid to talk to strangers in the street. It's nice to see people getting along so well in the middle of a city as bustling as Toronto. People in Sydney or London are generally to scared to even make eye contact.

- You cannot last more than 5 minutes without wearing gloves or a hat in the Canadian winter. I'm surprised body parts haven't started dropping off yet.

- The glass floor at the top of the CN tower is actually terrifying. I've never considered my scared of heights, but looking down from the third tallest building in the world as if nothing is supporting you is frightening.

- Poutine is as good as they say. When a Canadian asks if you've had Poutine and you reply with something along the lines of, "oh yeah I've had chips and gravy before" or "I went to lord of the fries once and had French-Canadian," do yourself a favour and punch yourself in the throat. When you eat real poutine, you'll know why I'm telling you this.

- Niagara Falls is amazing, but the corresponding town is basically Blackpool with the actual falls instead of Blackpool rock. 

I never thought I'd say this, but something makes Blackpool tower look good.


- Cheese in Canada is expensive. Not like 50c more than most places, but like $3 expensive than anywhere. I have failed to find a block of cheese (I'm talking shitty cheddar here) below the $5 mark. Don't even get me started on how much a small wedge of Bri costs...

- Most places require you pour your own coffee (with the exception of starbucks.)  Melbournites, don't expect any heart shapes in your froth because you'll be pouring your own bloody coffee. I find this bizarre considering how massive the café culture is in Canada or Toronto.

Well this is all I can think of at the moment. I'm going to follow this up with my experience at Niagara falls and some more Toronto stuff.